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In the Weaving Mill

dyed chenille who ready to be weavedBecause of its comparatively coarse Nm-count, chenille is best processed on a rapier/gripper projectile loom. Specifically, a Dornier-rapier loom produces the most favorable results. In most cases chenille yarn is woven together with a plain fine yarn in the filling weft, and difficulties in weft insertion can occur when the rapier has to change from picking up the chenille yarn to the finer plain yarn. The Dornier loom's rapier is the most capable of being adjusted to pick up both heavy and fine yarn.

Regardless of the type of machinery used, certain guidelines must be followed for processing chenille.

Feed from Cross-Wound Packages

The chenille manufacturing process creates minor variations in count and twist, within admissible tolerances. This can have a negative effect on the structure of the cloth when working single-shuttle or from one package on a rapier loom. One should always work multi-shuttle or multiple feed on a rapier loom in order to avoid the appearance of stripes or other flaws in the final material. The best results are from three or four feeds. When producing a completely plain fabric it is also advisable to start with the three or four packages with different diameters to guarantee uniform cloth quality. If the feeding packages have identical diameters, the take-off tension of the chenille yarn increases as the package diameter decreases, making the cloth progressively more tight and changing its appearance. Use of Different Yarn Carriers. The type of yarn carrier used will depend upon the dyeing process used for the chenille.

For Dyeing in Europe

dyed tubes ready for dyeing process

If the chenille is to be processed already dyed, it should be ordered on dye cones. If large package units are desired for feeding, a cone with a 10 inch traverse and a conicity of 2° 30' is appropriate. It should be taken into account whether these dimensions fit the space available at the creel and whether they are suitable for the dyehouse. A cone with a six inch traverse and a conicity of 4° 20' can also be used, but this cone presents certain disadvantages. One disadvantage is a considerably shorter running length compared to the 10" cone. The other disadvantage is that the 6" cone can cause double threads and irregularities to occur in the goods. This is caused by the relationship of the package to the core diameter. With a 6" cone, more windings occur per unit of length, in addition to the normal twist of the yarn. The additional windings can occur so far from the brake that the spring force of the brake is overcome and the yarn accumulating in the direction of the package is drawn into the material, along with the additional windings and crinklings. These irregularities then have to be eliminated or corrected in the later inspection process. Using 10" cones will reduce the chance of these irregularities, because of the improved package-to-core diameter relationship.

For Dyeing in the USA

dyed tubes ready for dyeing processUSA dyehouses dye on dye tubes. The type of dye tube used by your dyer should be specified to the chenille yarn supplier. The dyer will then wind the yarn onto a cone. If the finished goods are to be piece-dyed, it is best to use 10" 3° 30' cones. This will result in a package with a weight of 2.5 to 3.0 kg, and 30 mm in diameter, depending on the winding density. If the available space does not permit these large cones, then a 6" 4° 20' cone can be used. Weft or Filling Insertion An important requirement for flawless quality is the use of thread accumulators. This helps reduce the disadvantages of using a 6" cone but is very beneficial for all sizes of cones. The desired characteristic of chenille fabric includes intended "regular irregularities." This requires a nearly tension-free weft or filling insertion or a weft or filling insertion with uniform thread tension. This is achieved with thread regulating devices. Differences in tension in the weft or filling insertion generally have a negative effect on the appearance of the goods. Because of the relatively high weaving speeds used today, the shed forming devices move so rapidly that there is hardly enough time to insert the thread properly into the shed. It is vital that the chenille yarn is inserted freely in order to obtain the desired chenille character, with its regular irregularities over the entire cloth. Direction of movement of Chenille Yarns Ending lots or colors result in remnants of yarn on the cross-wound packages. When winding together remnants to make bigger units, the same pile direction of the chenille yarn must be maintained. This is accomplished by rewinding the yarn TWICE. Changes in Lot-Numbers When changing lot numbers, different lots must be kept absolutely separate.

This information is designed as a basic technical guideline for converting chenille yarn in weaving mills. Further information can be obtained by contacting CIMA.

For further technical questions, please e-mail or fax to CIMA's office in Lugano, Switzerland:

CIMA - Chenille International Manufacturers Association
Corso Elvezia 16 C.P. 4511 CH-6904 Lugano (Switzerland)
Tel/Fax: 011 41 91 921 09 91 - - E-mail: cima_intl@hotmail.com

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